From the Maple Syrup thread comes the discussion of trading (or finding) bow woods:
There has been quite a bit of interest the last few years in primitive bows, and the materials to make them.
Top of the line and top of the price are Osage Orange and Pacific Yew. Pacific Yew has always been in western North America, Osage was introduced (southeast first I think) but early enough that the natives used it.
Other varieties of wood were used that are not worth mentioning because they do not last long enough to make a good durable bow.
Local woods that are worth looking for are Hickory, White Ash, Red Oak and Black Locust in the eastern states.
There is less to choose from in the western states, like Vine Maple or Ocean Spray. There has been some White Ash planted in the west but conversations have it that it is not the same quality of bow wood as the indigenous from the east.
I am always wanting to try new materials, although I have had great success with hickory. It is durable and makes a better bow that White Ash or Red Oak for about the same price.
I really want to try Black Locust if I can find someone to sell or trade.
A good bow stave is cut from the clear bottom log of a tree from 6" to 8" in diameter. That will yield from 4 to 6 stave pieces. Smaller trees will make bows, but they will tend to be 'wimpier' and more prone to string follow. You know; young and tender - old and tough!!!
A length can be anywhere from 56" to 72" and yield a good bow. Green tree cuts should be bound together and dried in a flat stack for 3 to 4 months or better before working. Some like to dry with bark on and some with bark off. I won't argue either way but I prefer bark off since the log is so much easier to peel!
After 3 to 4 months drying I cut the stave to rough proportions and dry some more. Some bowyers hold out for 2 years or more before working the wood to really cure and seal. Once again I prefer to work it after less than 6 months drying since it is way easier to work. Then I can dry the stave to 80% or 90% in a 'stove pipe dryer' and speed up the process. I won't argue that those who wait longer and work the wood harder don't make a superior product. Their bows often sell from $250 to much higher. By 'cutting some corners' I can keep the cost under $120 or less.
My aim is to get folks shooting without a huge initial cost. They can work up to the spendy if they wish later. I also like to teach bow making and the easier the wood to work, the faster people learn.
Also, if a piece of wood 'blows', and they will, the new bowyer is not as frustrated as when laying out a lot more $$ for the cost of the wood.
ps - Lightseeker or anyone else, got a line on that Black Locust to sell or trade???
Thanks
Fletch
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Topic: In Search of Bow Woods (Read 4339 times)