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Author Topic: Newbie to flintlocks  (Read 2629 times)

Offline No Deer

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« Reply #15 on: April 06, 2009, 04:51:26 PM »
In addition to what the others said, you also asked about cleaning.  It is really no different than cleaning your cappers.  Just plug the touch hole with a toothpick and clean like you do your others.
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Offline jbullard1

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« Reply #16 on: April 06, 2009, 04:56:43 PM »
Quote from: "Longhunter"
Squeeeeeeze the trigger...don't pull. Let the shot surprise you.. :roll eyes
That's the way I was taught to shoot the suppository guns :shock:
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Offline jtwodogs

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Flint ignition
« Reply #17 on: April 06, 2009, 08:33:47 PM »
Quote from: "Sir Michael"
If you are interested in priming and how it affects the performance of flintlock check this out.

http://www.blackpowdermag.com/featured-articles/initial-pan-experiments-part-2.php

This information has been updated or reprinted I'm not sure in the latest edition of the Muzzle Blast.  It really knocks the socks of intuition.

Very informative Sir Michael
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Offline Sir Michael

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« Reply #18 on: April 06, 2009, 11:24:58 PM »
I'm not familiar with a Hatfield so when it comes to cleaning you may need to take bit more care.  

The first thing you need to know is whether or not it has a patent breach or flat breach.  Second, does it have a touch hole liner and not just a drilled touch hole.  Third, if it has a liner is it the type that can be removed.  Forth, is the barrel pined or does it have a "hooked" breach and wedges so it can be removed.  (this also applies to cap guns but I digress)  

If it has a patent breach and a touch hole liner that can be removed I'd strongly recommend that you remove it when you clean so you have good access to the Breach since the best you can do down the barrel is clean the false breach.  If it has a patent breach and a drilled or non-removable liner then clean the best you can and remember that you have a cavity below the false breach that you have to also get clean, dry, and greased/oiled.  

If the barrel comes off ie. has a hooked breach then take it off put it in a bucket of your cleaner of choice and have at it this will get the barrel and patent breach clean you just have to remember to get it dry.  

If the barrel is pined and you have a removable touch hole liner you can get a threaded flush tube you can put in its place and use it to flush cleaner thought the barrel and breach with the barrel on the stock and you can dry and lube it through the hole the liner goes in.  If it does not have a removable liner you may want to try a clamp device that fits over the barrel and covers the touch hole so you can flush it as I said before.  

Having said all this probably the most important thing about cleaning a flinter is knowing how you gun is designed.  But, that is true of all muzzleloaders.

Before I forget, one other thing.  Remove the lock regularly to make sure there is no build up of dust, powder, lint, or what ever in the works and that everything is still tight and working properly.  You don't have to take it apart just brush it off and apply a few well placed drops of oil and it should be ready to go.  One last thing, It is easier to clean the foot of the frizzen if you take it off the lock just be careful of the spring and don't squeeze it tight or you could break it.

Care for it well and it will serve you well.
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Offline mark davidson

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« Reply #19 on: April 07, 2009, 09:13:20 AM »
I'm a "newbie" too in my second year with flinters. They are addictive, way more plain ole FUN to shoot. (IMO) Find a load it likes. It seems they all have a preference for a particular powder and ball and patch combo. Pick the vent hole and make sure it is always clear after you load and before you prime. Don't overdo the prime. For me the most critical thing has been to keep a good sharp flint in place. The absolute only misfires I have had were with wornout flints. I actually find flinters to be simpler to prime and unprime than cappers and I find the task much simpler with cold hands while hunting. As someone said above, there is no going back. :-)

Offline Minnesota Mike

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« Reply #20 on: April 07, 2009, 10:12:56 AM »
and make sure if you're hunting in moist, damp and rainy weather to check or change your powder in the pan . . . or it dances the ol'fizzle dance while the critter thumbs its nose at you and runs down the trail . . .

r/
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Offline graybeard

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« Reply #21 on: April 07, 2009, 09:51:26 PM »
I converted to flint a few years ago and found that the more you shoot, the more reliable the rifle becomes.  Shoot a lot, as often as you can.  Flintlocks grow on you.  Left the Winchester in the cabinet last deer season and only used the flinter.  graybeard
"If a man ain't hunting or fishing he's just frittering his life away"--Rancid Crabtree

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Offline James Kelly

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« Reply #22 on: April 10, 2009, 01:14:39 PM »
One of the neat things about a flintlock is that people expect percussion guns to be more reliable.
Went to a match with a brand new never-tested Pedersoli "Dixie Cub" flint .40 cal. Gun went "bang" every time, about 14 shots.
I noticed that the capguns occasionally went "pop".
Heh heh
Not an impressive looking lock, but shoots. Used French amber flints from Horstguns.com strictly because they are pretty, & Swiss NullB prime because it is HOT.  
I do have one flintlock that isn't worth a damn for flint life, and now three others that go BANG quite reliably. One Chambers/Siler lock, two Pedersoli. & I am not all that fussy about pricking the vent or cleaning spotlessly. I just shoot.
Stay with flintlocks. Enjoy the flash. Good for the ego. Puts the FIRE back in fire arms.
if the ball is not rammed close on the powder. . .frequently cause the barrel to burst

Offline Puffer

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« Reply #23 on: April 10, 2009, 01:46:28 PM »
Quote from: "BEAVERMAN"
Powder, patch, ball......... half cock, prime, close frizzen, full cock, aim, squeeze! :rotf  :rotf

 Seriously, not much to them, just dont over prime the pan and create a mtn of powder that the sparks from the lock have to burn through to get to the flash hole, a well timed lock thats working properly really shouldnt need any prime in the pan! oh yea, follow through on the shot, learning to shoot a flinter well will only improve your shooting skills for ANY other gun.

AND THIS from "SOMEONE" who said "HE WOULD NEVER SHOOT A FLINTER"  :rotf

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Online BEAVERMAN

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« Reply #24 on: April 10, 2009, 02:17:12 PM »
I NEVER SAID NEVER!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
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Offline Gordon H.Kemp

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« Reply #25 on: April 10, 2009, 09:34:25 PM »
As far as I'm concerned, the flinter is more fun to shoot. You've got enough advice, so just keep on enjoying the smoke and fire.
Gordy
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Offline Loyalist Dave

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« Reply #26 on: April 11, 2009, 10:00:35 AM »
AND...., the bragging rights are vastly superior when you make a good shot or bag game, when talking to caplock shooters OR modern gun users (inlines are included in "modern" guns btw).   :hey-hey

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Offline burch

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« Reply #27 on: April 15, 2009, 07:16:03 PM »
RIFLES ARE HERE BOYS !!!!!!!!    YEHAW !!!!!!!!!!

  The Hatfield flinter is in really nice shape and the bore shines like a mirror. No rust anywhere. A couple tiny nicks on the stock. The only thing I found on it was the flask hole bushing is permenant unless someones has an idea for taking it out. I was thinking maybe an easy out but it`s really not that critical. I`d rate this rifle at 95% or better.

 The Dixie rifle is in used shape and looks like someone has done some squirrel hunting with it but the bore is also mirror bright and no rust anywhere. It has a few nicks but all in all it`s in pretty good condition. The bolster will have to be replaced `cause the threads are damaged and not enough there to set it right with the nipple. It`s also been gussied up a bit and in my opinion a bit too much but i`ll take a guess and say it`ll shoot good.
 
    With all that said i`m trully happy with the trade and can`t wait to hit the range with both of `em.

        Here`s some pics and please no drooling on my post.
http://i159.photobucket.com/albums/t127 ... IM0603.jpg
http://i159.photobucket.com/albums/t127 ... IM0602.jpg
http://i159.photobucket.com/albums/t127 ... IM0597.jpg
http://i159.photobucket.com/albums/t127 ... IM0595.jpg
http://i159.photobucket.com/albums/t127 ... IM0589.jpg
http://i159.photobucket.com/albums/t127 ... IM0600.jpg
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Offline ridjrunr

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« Reply #28 on: April 15, 2009, 07:27:39 PM »
Looks like ya dun good !!  :bl th up
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Offline burch

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« Reply #29 on: April 15, 2009, 08:07:06 PM »
I`m a little confused. Is this a Dixie Tennesse Rifle or a Southern Mountain Rifle and what`s the difference ?
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