Suspenders

[DEADDAWG]

The way my body is built, waist larger than back side, I like to use suspenders to keep my drawers up. Besides, it prevents the ladies in camp from getting a free show that I'm sure they would not appreciate. Here lies the problem, the only type of suspenders I can find are the webbing type that most sutlers have. The type with modern snaps and clasps for adjustment. As I portray a trader/plainsman of the 1820's, these "dandy" type suspenders from Europe and back east are not appropriate. I have been unable to find anything that a common working man would have used. Were they leather or webbing, or a combination of both? Were they the four buttons in front and two buttons on the back like the dandy suspenders? Were they straight over the shoulders or crossed in the back? If crossed in the back, were they sewn together or left loose. Trying to get more correct in my attire and the documentation of this has eluded me. Any good references you can point me to?

Rick

[Spotted Bull]

I have learned to wear the new fangled suspenders under my shirt to keep my britches us...

[BEAVERMAN]

I have learned to wear the new fangled suspenders under my shirt to keep my britches us...

ME THREE!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

[DEADDAWG]

I usually go with my shirt tucked in. Wearing my suspenders under my shirt is a hassle when having to hit the hooter, especially in the winter (gets REAL cold).

[Three Hawks]

I wear my braces under my shirt as well.   Trying to find PC braces was a royal pain in the _ _ _ _.  

Three Hawks

[Kermit]

IIRC, Mark Twain was issued 3 patents for suspenders, but that's a little later. I think the French are credited with inventing 'em about the time of Their Revolution. I saw what was purported to be 18th century braces, and they had leather tabs on woven straps--one buttonhole on the ends. And I think they were sewn at the crossing.

Purveyors to the Cowboy Action set sell 'em, but with the usual two-button suspension system. Jas Townsend sells some like that too.

[Craig Tx]

You might check with C & D Jaragan.  IIRC they have linen suspenders.


Craig

[Minnesota Mike]

Check out both Panther Primitives and Log Cabin Shop.

Both are great to work with.

r/
MM

[Loyalist Dave]

I think you are looking for a gallus or a pair of galluses.  Most sources use the word as a synonym for braces or suspenders, BUT I believe that a gallus was a single strap from the rear of the trousers, over the opposite shoulder, and back to the trousers.  A cloth strip that fastened to the waist of the trousers with a button, a button hole being in each end of the gallus.  So from a button on the rear of the left hip (or right if you prefer), over the right shoulder, to a button on the front of the left hip.  A pair would then be worn crossed in back.  Suspenders or braces were worn crossed as well but the straps were sewn together where they cross or might have a joining piece in front and back (see lederhosen), and sometimes had leather ends that fastened to pairs of buttons, with the current design stemming from 1822, and being adjustable.  

LD

[DEADDAWG]

Dave, that sounds like what I've seen in drawings before, just couldn't find any documentation searching for suspenders or braces. Now I know what to search for to see if the documentation exists for my time period.

Weren't these the ones made from old harness leather, rope, sail cloth?

Thanks,
Rick

[Loyalist Dave]

I would just make them out of canvas.  You really shouldn't be showing them off in public anyway, as they were worn under waistcoats, so who really cares what they are made of?  If you think you must have something like this, and they might be seen in a camp, you could opt for the single gallus, of linen or canvas.  (It just "offends the eye" less..., no documentation either way.)

How far does it go back?  Tough to say..., how does one document what would not appear in artwork, nor be seen by observers?    Example..., How far does the corn cob pipe go back?  Herringbone weave for wool was known in the 17th century, but seems to have disappeared in the 18th century, only to return in the 19th century.  Wierd.  So..., do what you need to do and if anybody asks, tell them you don't have documentation prior to the French Rev or so, but you need 'em.  (I like braces as it keeps the sciatica away; I wear them under a waistcoat so what's the harm?)    

LD

[cb]

Look up Ben Franklin and Galluses - he apparently had them as part of the Philadelphia fireman's uniform in the mid-1700's.
Also look up the history of suspenders and galluses on line - there's a fair amount of info out there and not all galluses were single. The info will tell you when the various styles - x back and h back came into being......

[DEADDAWG]

Dave, I'm not one to wear a waist coat, not really in public or polite company. I'm portraying a trader/plainsman west of the Mississippi. North in the summer, south in the winter, with the occasional stop in St Louis to buy supplies and sell hides I traded for. I carry a squaw from the north and she don't much care what I wear. I'll keep researching and see what turns up and decide from there.

Rick

[DEADDAWG]

CB thanks for the direction to search. I'll let you know what I turn up.

Rick

[Loyalist Dave]

1820's you're fine.  Funny though slaves and indentured servants (lower class in the vast majority of cases than a trader) wore waistcoats from the 1730's through the AWI.  I wonder that they fell out of fashion on the Mississippi by 1820.  Perhaps pockets became very common on trousers?

Try this out for good, though earlier, clothing descriptions:  http://etext.virginia.edu/subjects/runaways/1740s.html

LD