sewing a shirt

[shootrj2003]

I'm sewing a shirt for myself ,can I sew it with a machine or do I absolutely have to sew it by hand.It's my first venture into sewing clothing of any kind and ,frankly,. the less work the better.I will probably do more in the future and if I can get away with machine sewing the fist couple I can concentrate on other things now.However ,if neccesary,I am capable of learning to sew by hand.I sew shooting bags by hand,But it's a lot faster by machine and easier on fingers and joints!

[Spotted Bull]

Unless you are going to really STRICT event, I'd sew it with a machine. I have to start sewing my outfit very soon and you can bet I will use a machine!

[Kermit]

Unless you are planning to enter some sort of juried event, forget the 100% hand sewing. I once won a competition where one of the judges wanted to examine all clothing for total hand sewing. Cooler heads prevailed (thanks, ladies!) and I didn't have to disrobe.

Many times people sew all seams with a machine and then hand finish areas where stitching shows, like collar, cuffs, neck opening, any top stitching. That way it looks "right," but you save yourself HOURS of work where no one will (or should) look.

For your first shirt, you might want to machine sew it all, because you are trying to understand the way a shirt goes together. Do it with cheap fabric at first until you get the lay of the land, then go for more authenticity in both materials and method.

[Indiana]

If you really want to handsew yourself a shirt, I'd sew up one from your pattern on a machine first so you know what you'll end up with before investing all of the time it'll take to hand sew one.  If you like the pattern, great cut it out again and get to stitching, if not, make some changes and then get to stitching.  

[shootrj2003]

Thank you,
 Yeah, that's what I wanted to hear ,I'm really not into hand sewing that much.

[Loyalist Dave]

FYI the basic straight stitch on a sewing machine was designed to mimic hand stitiching.  Most machines at the "widest" setting are too wide in stitching to mimic hand stictch, but the machines may be set for tighter stitches.  

We did an experiment once, and machine stitched a piece of cloth, then repeated the operation, only revolved the mechanism by hand, and varied the width of the stitching.  This was presented to a clothing "expert" who identified the second stitch as hand stitching...., showing that what many experts look for is really poorly sewn stitching ( at least it would've been back in the day when sewers prided themselves on very tight, very even stitching.)

Just food for thought.  

LD

[shootrj2003]

Thanks Dave,
  I had actually wondered about how tight good Original  hand stitching was,Until now, I've never had occasion to check it out on real ,old clothes[as opposed to hand stitching done today by somebody who may be more interested in having it look "handstitched"]I'll have to take a trip to a local museum to see  some stitching on some old clothes.I am near a few good ones ,West Point,New Windsor Cantonment,Brick House Museum and a few others are all close by and have clothing dating back to the Revolution on display.Thanks.

[LRB]

IMHO, Dave is absolutely correct. I was able to handle and examine  a shirt that was hand sewn in Ireland, circa 1840, and the stitching was indistinguishable from machine stitching. 17 stitches per inch, and very evenly spaced. I am sure an expert could tell the difference, but I could not. The shirt was in perfect condition also. I would say that if you can tell hand stitching from machine by a cursory look, it wasn't done correctly, or at the least, not by a pro.

[ManyVoices]

I've done a few items completely by hand (including my first 1850s dress - boned & everything, phew!).  But, since I'm usually running late, the machine is my friend.  I sew according to the aforementioned idea - if it shows, I do it by hand (top stitching, buttonholes - ugh!, and such).  Otherwise, only my Viking knows for sure!  

[FlintSteel]

Most or all of your straight stitching that doesn't show can be machine stitched. Top stitching that is visible to everyone should probably be hand stitched, at least to appease the judges. Unless they do a strip search   no one will ever know.

[Kermit]

Leather workers will understand the difference. Machines sew with a "lock stitch," like using a handy-stitcher awl, while hand sewing was usually a "running stitch." If you look closely at hand sewing and have it pointed out, it's easy to spot. The real question is whether anyone is ever going to take your garment off of you to look inside. Not likely.

[halfdan]

while hand sewing was usually a "running stitch.".

Running stitch was often used to attach linings and such. "Structural seams" where strength is required would usually be sewn with a back stitch, which is almost impossible to distinguish from machine stitching without a very close examination from the inside.

Dave

[Kermit]

Oops. Dave's right. Let's see, first engage brain...

[gelsenbeck]

Hmmmm, lets see.  Leatherworkers would generally use the 'saddle stitch' where strength is required, like all seams that would be exposed to stress.  The 'back stitch' is great for embroidery for outlining, but NOT if you want a hunting pouch put together.  Then there's the 'fell' stitch that is great for joining two pieces of leather (or fabric) side by side, like you see in alot of barktanned leather style pouches today(see below).  
I've seen some of the 'so-called' homespun pouches by some of our contemporary artists(?) done today where the 'running stitch' was used to put one together and I would not carry one of them let alone actually fill them with anything.  Most think they're 'showing off' their stitching competency, but to those that know, their lack of ability is only exceeded by their desire to grab the buyer's money.  Using only a 'running stitch' to put a pouch together just isn't going to last.  Especially when I examine them and they're using a very light thread.      

The 'fell' stitch is often used to put two pieces together to make a flap.  When only small pieces are available this is a good stitch that is quite strong especially when used with good thread.


 

[Sir Michael]

I'd sew it by machine and follow the other advice on this thread.  

I just got a new sewing machine and in doing a little research I actually found a model that has a "hand stitch" mode.  Apparently it varies the length of the stitches and straightness of the stitching to mimic hand sewing.  Don't know how many different stitches have this option but even the standard straight stitch becomes suspect with this available.