Jacob Dickert Build Progress

[Captchee]

To be honest ,Myself , I have done it both ways . But most often so that the inside of the pipe is flush with the bottom .. Let the entry pipe dictate  the depth . When working with a pre-carve , if the RR channel is over sized  for the RR your using , then a lot of times  the  entry only needs to go to the bottom of the channel  so as to allow the RR to pass . However if the channel was cut to the size of the RR , then  it will need to  go down tell the inside is flush  before the RR will pass though .
 that’s assuming one is using  just a flat formed RR pipe . Cast pipes  or  very thick ones , need to go tell the inside of the pipe is flush with the bottom of the channel

[Hanshi]

Great work!

[4-Liberty]

Inletting the front ramrod pipe.

Marking 5" back from the muzzle.


Inletting the ramrod pipe tennon.




Tennon is in, now it's ti to sink it down.




And she's in!

[4-Liberty]

I've run into a bit of an issue that I noticed after I inletted the rear ramrod entry thimble. I thought I had everything nice and centered during inletting, but once I was finished, I took it out of the vice, I noticed it was off to the left side very slightly.  :rt th

[Captchee]

There  will be a lot of things you  will know   will be there . That’s because your  building the gun . Others  unless they are doing a very close inspection wont see the same things you do . IMO I would just leave  the entry the way it is . Maybe  role the final slightly  if the belly of the final doesn’t match the belly of the  forearm .. case could very well be that your RR channel isnt exsactly true to the stock . thus when inlet the entry will be off alittle .
As a note : things like the entry being slightly off or RR channels not being exactly true ,  are the same things you would see on many originals . Sometimes even very high end originals

[sse]

Great discussion and pics...love 'em...

[4-Liberty]

Thanks, Captchee! That's exactly what I was wanting to hear. I was leaning more towards just leaving it as is, I guess I was just looking for validation.
Boy, you fellas are not only great for technical support, but emotional support as well!  

[Captchee]

for your first rifle your doing an astounding job . keep at it in the same manor  and you will have something to be very proud of

[4-Liberty]

The trigger guard is all cleaned up! It just needs a final polish after I inlet it. The Dremel sanding wheels on a drill press sure made the job much easier.

Here's the before.

And the after.

A couple closer looks.



Now it's time to inlet it!

[4-Liberty]

My progress on inletting the trigger guard.
(I have a question that follows.)

I had to cut a notch out with a jewlers saw in order to accomidate the TG tennon.



Starting to sink it in.


So, here is my issue. As you can see in the following photos, I've inletted the TG as far as it can go down because I am right up against the trigger plate that I had to notch out in order to fit the TG tennon. The trigger plate, that I inletted awhile back, is right flush with the wood of the stock, but I need to inlet the TG a little more in order to sink in the front TG tang. If I just cut off the trigger plate so I can inlet it a little deeper, I would have a gap between the TG and the stock because the trigger plate protrudes off of the sides of the TG. Or I could file down the trigger plate, but that might get a little messy.  So I guess I'm not sure how to approach solving this problem.

[Captchee]

are you sure your triggers do not have to go deeper , can go deeper or can be adjusted so as to go deeper .
thats what i would consider first . IOf the answer is no , then i would consider the following as opptions

1)_ As you said , you could cut off the Trigger plate . But that’s going to leave a hole . You could fill that hole. If you do a good job of matching the grain ,  only you will know .
2)_ you could file down the  front of the trigger plate . But then  if you did that  your still going to have a step  down below the wood , at the corners of your trigger guard.  Which IMO would look  worse then if you cut  the end of the trigger plate off and then did a patch
3)_  trim down the  Trigger guard in the area around the post .  That way you can inlet the  forward final of the TG ,a little deeper. Yet have the back step up onto the Trigger plate  and still have the post drop through the hole
4)_ Scribe around the TG  so that you can take your Jewelers saw and  carefully trim the area out  so that the TG can drop down through the  trigger Plate .
5)_ cut the post off  and silver solder it on at a point just forward of the Trigger plate . then file down the  old location so that it steps up onto the trigger plate .

 
 Frankly it all depends on the amount of work  and how well you think you can accomplish that work . Frankly with what you have done so far , I honestly don’t think you would have a problem doing any of the above .

 Now myself  I would look back at your entry thimble . How deep have you inlet the final on that .
That depth is going to pretty much dictate the belly plain on your rifle . As such the forward final on your TG needs to be  real close to the same depth . So looking back at your photos that you have posted , it would appear that  you inlet the entry so it was pretty much flush with the  existing belly of the stock .

Did you check to make sure your RR will fit through and into the stock properly ?

 If you did  and all was well , then it would  appear that the existing plain of the belly of the stock is  what your shooting for .
  Normally the   forward finals of the TG are not inlet to deep . Just to a point that the wood hits the side of the  bevel ..
 So taking that into consideration , I would   most likely do #3 or #5 .
 Between those two , at the  point your at , I would probably  go for #3 . If I had not yet cut the hole in the trigger plate  and inlet the wood for the post , I would have went for #5

[4-Liberty]

I can't lower the trigger plate any more. I just fine tuned it because I wasn't satisfied with the amount of pull it took to trip the cock without the set trigger. If I drop it anymore, the cock wouldn't lock in full-cock unless I filed even more off the front trigger blade. I already filed it some, and it trips perfectly now so I don't really want to mess that up.
The RR entry pipe tang is inletted flush with the belly of the stock, and the inside portion of the pipe is flush with the bottom of the channel, so the RR has no problems getting into the entry pipe.
Thanks for all of the suggestions! I'm going to take another look at it. I'm actually leaning towards pluggin it. I never even thought of doing that. I think if I were to file down the TG where it meets the trigger plate, I wouldn't be able to get consistent contact between the two.

[4-Liberty]

Well, I decided to just plug it. It was actually pretty easy, and I think it'll turn out alright!

[4-Liberty]

Anybody ever run into this fun, little issue? That's the rear pin hole to the trigger guard. Apparently it was a little tight trying to pound the pin through! I lifted up the little splinter tabs and spread some wood glue around under them, then put a c-clamp over it. I'm hoping that does the trick. Luckily, I don't think it's too deep, and I still have some wood to remove around the wrist. I just have to be careful if I have to rasp around that area.
Boy, I feel like I'm having more problems than accomplishments at this point.

[Captchee]

yep . had that happen to ..
 what i have found its from is that your holes don’t align  just so . If you pin has a flat or sharp end on it ,  as you try and drive it through , it acts like a nail  and then blows out the other side .
 What can help stop this from happening is to run a smaller pin through first  so as to make sure the hole through the wood and the hole in the TG,  or RR pipe , aligns . Then take your finish pin and round the end . Buff it good and smooth . If you do that and  find a pin which doesn’t just tap down without much force , then pill it  and find out why