First Muzzleloader

[ballen1900]

Hi All,
Been lurking here for a while, but just finished my first muzzleloader - Lyman .54 GPR in flint. I know, nothing period, but I wanted some relatively easy experience, and I wanted a flinter that was a step up from something like a Traditions.

Fired it 4-5 times today to get the flint sort-of working, but now I see why everyone says to replace the lock - it's hard to get consistent spark with the Investarms frizzen even with a good flint that's flat and straight. But I eventually got it to fire. Next up is getting it sighted in at the range.

Here's a couple of pics (hope they come through). Finish is 6 coats of natural Watco with 6 coats of satin wipe-on poly - quick and easy.
Bill

[Rocklock]

Are you not sparking or is the prime not flashing?

Positioning of the flint in the jaws can make a LOT of difference.

Where are you located?  There may be someone near by who can save you a lot of typing and frustration.
TC
Near Austin Texas

[Hylander]

Did you build from a kit ?
The finish looks Awesome 

[Ohio Joe]

After the first few shots (or even after the 1st shot or throw) tighten your flint again to make sure it's not loose when striking the Frizzen, and it is sharp and has good leather holding it in the jaws.

If you're using "cut flint" switch to the Tom Fuller Black English flints from Track of the Wolf. (You can request "flat top flints)

Are you using real black powder? Flintlocks don't like the fake stuff.

At half cock, the edge of your flint should be no more then 1/16th inch away from the Frizzen with the pan closed - the striking edge located about 1/3rd down from the very top of the Frizzen. Sometimes you have to flip the flint over to get there.

Don't give up on that flintlock. You're in for a world of enjoyment!

This video may be of some help;

[ballen1900]

Thanks guys for the pointers.

Rocklock and OhioJoe: Not getting consistent sparks. I'm using Tom Fuller flints. I have been using them upside down (flat-side up), to get the strike up near the top.

On the first one, I didn't have it perfectly square to the frizzen, so it took a corner off. I may be able to re-knap it later. The next one worked better, but still only get enough sparks to light the powder maybe once every 2-3 hits. I'm using Olde Oxford 2F (real stuff) for both the load and the prime. When the pan lights, it fires every time. At half-cock, the flint is resting on the frizzen (it won't close completely), even though the flint is up against the clamp screw. I'm using a thin piece of suede leather to hold the flint so that I can get it back in the jaw as far as possible. It seems to be solidly held, without any movement.

I'm beginning to think that the cock isn't positioned on the shaft correctly, because it doesn't seem to make sense that nothing fits quite right.

Hylander: Yes, it's from a kit.

Oh yeah, I'm near Everett, WA.
Bill

[Bigsmoke]

Even though you are using thin leather, you can get a few more .000" clearance by punching an appropriate size hole in the middle of the leather to clear the top jaw screw.  That might or might not help, YMMV.  Without seeing exactly what you have, it is hard to tell.  Just an old trick i learned somewhere in the distant past.

Joe, that was a great video.  Rather enjoyed listening to him talk, but closed captions would have made it easier.  Been a while since I heard the frizzen called a hammer.  Had to smile a bit.

[Ohio Joe]

Rather enjoyed listening to him talk, but closed captions would have made it easier.  Been a while since I heard the frizzen called a hammer.  Had to smile a bit.

Yes, I noticed that too and over looked it. Just about the time I wanted to find something that may help on flint positioning - lol,,, this was all I could find. 

Other then a few word plays, it gives a decent walk through. I know there has to be something better out there in the youtube world. 

[Ohio Joe]

Not getting consistent sparks. I'm using Tom Fuller flints. I have been using them upside down (flat-side up), to get the strike up near the top.

Hmmm, something isn't right. Anyway, can you post a picture of that lock with the flint you're using in the jaws? kinda like to see that front edge of the flint and the frizzen face.  Sometimes pictures can say a lot.

Big Smoke has touched on something that maybe your problem. If that flint is to far forward - it very well may be knocking that frizzen open to quickly and the flint is not having enough time to drag down the face of the frizzen and create sparks into the pan. IMHO, the flint must be timed with the frizzen to create good sparking conditions.

Here's a good Video;

[Hank in WV]

If you haven't already, try turning the flint over with the bevel up. It just might need to be a little farther away from the frizzen.

[Winter Hawk]

Rocklock and OhioJoe: Not getting consistent sparks. I'm using Tom Fuller flints. I have been using them upside down (flat-side up), to get the strike up near the top.

Try turning the flint over and see if you get better clearance.  The strike doesn't need to be near the top; on both of my CVA and the L&R lock on my T-C the flint hits the frizzen somewhere between half way and 2/3 of the way up. 

Also, I believe the GPR uses 5/8" flints, which gets confusing because that's the width of the rock but the length is also in relation to the width.  If your flints are on the long side, besides punching a hole in the leather to allow them to back up against the screw, you can also knap a notch in the back of the flint to back it up even further.

~Kees~

[ballen1900]

Hi again,
Here's some pics of the way things fit. First is to show where the flint strikes the frizzen when the flat side is up. Second is at half cock, flat side up. And third, is half cock, flat side down. As you can see, if you move through the arc from this position, the flint hits the frizzen pretty close to the bottom. I tried dry firing it like this and only got a couple of very anemic sparks. Doubtful it would light the powder.

I certainly do appreciate all the advice and help.
Thanks,
Bill

[Ohio Joe]

Thanks for the pictures.

First thing that comes to mind is the flint is striking high enough when facing up. Second thing that comes to mind is trim some of that leather off the bottom of that flint jaw so it's even with the front part of the metal. It's possible it may be acting like a "bumper/buffer" not letting the flint scrape down and stay on the frizzen every time you pull the trigger.

May as well trim the leather at the top as well.





Give that a try and let us know. 

[Hank in WV]

When you do get sparks, what color are they? If they are red, your frizzen is probably too soft.  (boy, my spell-checker sure doesn't like the word frizzen).

[Ohio Joe]

One last thought.

I would also try knapping that flint and getting it as far back as possible against the Jaw Screw so that the Pan closes completely... If none of this works, try a flint that is not so "humped-backed" and try a little thicker leather to hold it in the Jaw.

Okay. one other thing. Is it humid where you shoot? If so, after the prime going off in the pan (I use a q-tip to wipe out the pan and the other end to wipe around the vent hole, and frizzen foot that covers the prime.) It doesn't take long in humid weather for failure to ignite the prime (or ignite the prime and not have the charge go off). In short, keep the ignition area as dry as possible.

My routine in humid weather if this is your case?

Wipe pan and vent hole area, wipe frizzen face and foot
load
wipe pan and vent hole area again, wipe frizzen face and foot again
pick & prime (I fill my pan with prime keeping the powder level and just beneath the touch hole. (Everyone has their own technique, but it's what you find that works for you - then keep it that way all the time.

Check out what Hank suggested on the spark color. You never know, a frizzen not hardened enough may have slipped by when manufactured?

good luck

[Maven]

ballen1900, A few more suggestions if you can stand them:  (1) Add a 1/8" pc. of wood (old paint stirrer) or leather (old belt) to raise the flint (bevel down).  (2) Use a new 1/4" drill bit spun with your fingers to cone the outside of the touchhole [liner] for better ignition.  (3) Open the touchhole to 5/64" if none of the other suggestions (mine & everyone else's) solve the problem.  Lastly, it's possible that your frizzen needs to be rehardened, but that's pretty much a last resort if nothing else works.  Good luck and let us know how things go.