I hate patent breech plugs - another kit build ...

[RobD]

So, of course I bought yet another offshore "screwdriver" rifle kit.  I guess I'll never learn.   

This time it's an Investarms "Gemmer Hawken" flinter in .50 bore, 32" tube, 1:60 rifling, so it's essentially a patched ball gun.  First thing I did was sell the supplied flint lock and order out an L&R RPL-05 flint lock.  Waiting for the new lock to arrive so I can fit it in as there's usually some tweaking to the inlet involved, and then the considerably proud stock wood rasping and sanding can begin.  A friend sent me a Lee .490 mold and I ran some balls, just to have on hand, and make a ball board. 

I was thinking of sending off the barrel to Bobby Hoyt for a ream to .54 but I'll hold off on that 'til the gun's completed as I'm interested to see how it (and me) will perform at longer distances as far out as 300 yards with patched ball. 

 [ Invalid Attachment ]      

[KDubs]

Rob I'm sure it will be a winner when you're done.
 Good luck, have fun.
Kevin

[Ohio Joe]

Be interesting to hear if there's much difference (if any) between the Gemmer and the Lyman GPR. Looking forward to your review! 

[RobD]

Be interesting to hear if there's much difference (if any) between the Gemmer and the Lyman GPR. Looking forward to your review! 

Don't see a difference other than price.  For the .50s, both are 1:60 twist and 32" barrels ... if anything the GPR has brass furniture and the GH is steel.

 [ Invalid Attachment ]

[Ohio Joe]

That's interesting Rob.

Both my Lyman GPR's have steel furniture. One is 16 years old (.50 cal flintlock), and the other is 5 or 6 years old (.54 percussion lock).

I know I purchased them as advertised (both were kits); Lyman Great Plains Rifle. I guess mine lean more to the Gemmer side.

[RobD]

That's interesting Rob.

Both my Lyman GPR's have steel furniture. One is 16 years old (.50 cal flintlock), and the other is 5 or 6 years old (.54 percussion lock).

I know I purchased them as advertised (both were kits); Lyman Great Plains Rifle. I guess mine lean more to the Gemmer side.

The naming conventions used for lots of offshore guns is almost laughable as none, not even the Hawkens, are true replicas.  Close in some cases, but not close enough.  It's all good, they all sorta kinda look the part, if'n even that matters.   

[Ohio Joe]

That's interesting Rob.

Both my Lyman GPR's have steel furniture. One is 16 years old (.50 cal flintlock), and the other is 5 or 6 years old (.54 percussion lock).

I know I purchased them as advertised (both were kits); Lyman Great Plains Rifle. I guess mine lean more to the Gemmer side.

The naming conventions used for lots of offshore guns is almost laughable as none, not even the Hawkens, are true replicas.  Close in some cases, but not close enough.  It's all good, they all sorta kinda look the part, if'n even that matters.   

Agree completely.

It would seem that the early Lyman "Plains" Rifles (with the 28" barrel) had brass furniture (to include a brass patch box, nose cap, and butt-plate). Seems when they went to the 32" barreled "Great Plains" rifle (what we know today as the Lyman Great Plains Rifle) - they dumped the patch box, and probably just went all steel furniture with the rest.

Regardless, it has been one popular rifle for sure! 

[RobD]

The build continues ...

 [ Invalid Attachment ]

 [ Invalid Attachment ]

[RobD]

Lock is almost fitted to the stock inlet, a bit more wood relief needed here and there.
Bbl wouldn't fit the stock channel as the forward wedge escutcheon stock inlet needed a bunch of relieving,
Two of the screws to attach the ramrod thimble tray are buggered, need to take a good one to the local hardware store to verify the metric thread for some new ones.
And that's it for today.

 [ Invalid Attachment ]

[RobD]

Th e L&R RPL05 replacement lock needs lotsa reworking of the inlet, but this ain't my first rodeo with these locks and true to form it took a buncha chiseling with a bit of sanding to get the bugger to fit well.  Next up is to remove the bbl, lock, trigger guard, trigger assembly, and begin to take down the proud walnut stock wood - there's a LOT!



 [ Invalid Attachment ]

 [ Invalid Attachment ]

 [ Invalid Attachment ]

 [ Invalid Attachment ]

[Hank in WV]

I'm somewhat surprised it's actually real walnut.

[RobD]

I'm somewhat surprised it's actually real walnut.

"European walnut" so the description sez.  Hard as a rock and Heavy.

EUROPEAN WALNUT WOOD

The species is Juglans regia, or Royal Walnut, and is one of the most admired hardwoods of all time. Many of the finest antiques were made from French Walnut. The heartwood color ranges from medium brown, to tan, to orange and can contain black spider web streaks or vein noir.

[Winter Hawk]

Did you carve out the lock panel, or is that how it came from the factory?  It looks like you need to take lots of wood off the wrist, well, like you said, all over.  I just looked at the forearm cap and it seems to be a lot smaller than the wood behind it.  Are you going to take the perch belly out also?

Another question: what are you using for inletting black? What I have is probably 50 years old and in powder form.  It makes a big mess and doesn't seem to transfer very well.

The fit of lock looks good.  I'm looking forward to seeing your further progress!

~Kees~

[RobD]

Did you carve out the lock panel, or is that how it came from the factory?  It looks like you need to take lots of wood off the wrist, well, like you said, all over.  I just looked at the forearm cap and it seems to be a lot smaller than the wood behind it.  Are you going to take the perch belly out also?

Another question: what are you using for inletting black? What I have is probably 50 years old and in powder form.  It makes a big mess and doesn't seem to transfer very well.

The fit of lock looks good.  I'm looking forward to seeing your further progress!

~Kees~

Yes, there is an enormous amount of wood removal to be accomplished.  The perch belly will remain - I like that look.  I use Permatex Prussian Blue inlet dye.

The lock panel is already inlet for the supplied stock flint lock and fits reasonably well.  I sold off that lock and I'm using an L&R RPL05 replacement lock that's of much better geometry and quality.  This lock requires a fair amount of wood removal in order to achieve a good fit to both the stock and barrel.  I'm about 95% there and need to remove about 1/64" from the perimeter of the inlet so that the lock plate will kiss the barrel for a tight fit.  Also, the  hole that accepts the lock sear arm needs to be enlarged at its top to allow the trigger to trip the sear.

 [ Invalid Attachment ]

[Hanshi]

Being another shooter who does not like patent breeches I've always tried to avoid them.  But that's hard to do with imported rifles.  I will admit, however, that I've never had a patent breech caused me a bit of trouble.  I have a rifle with a patent breech I bought years ago (percussion) and love it.  It's mine and a keeper.  But I still don't like a PB!

Just think of that kit as a "blank slate" and yourself as the artist.  I think you'll end up with a masterpiece.