Jacob Dickert Build Progress

[4-Liberty]

Sorry, I seemed to jump ahead a bit. I guess I'm just planning ahead a little. I have marked the breech face on the outside right flat where the flash hole would be. I used a digital caliper and measured where the breech face would be by removing the breech plug and measuring to the inside face of the barrel (where the rifling would meet the breech face) to the outside face of the breech, and then transferred that measurement to the outside flat. The problem is, I have yet to receive the lock because it was backordered and I'm just trying to do what I can now without getting too far ahead.  I just received an email yesterday from TOW saying I should receive it in the mail tomorrow though! So as soon as I get it, I will finish inletting the lock and then adjust the barrel to where the flash hole will be centered on the pan. I figured while I'm waiting I might as well instal the breech end barrel tenon 11" from the breech. That location shouldn't be impacted greatly by the slight adjustment I might have to make for centering the flash hole (at least I don't think) as long as I don't inlet it and pin it. As for the 2 forward barrel tenons I won't instal until the flash hole is centered and the barrel tang is inletted. I was brainstorming, more or less, about where I should place them when the time comes.

I just measured the web between the barrel channel and the RR grove and its 0.26" at the muzzle end, and the barrel tenon is 0.18" so that will give me 0.08" of webbing left. I'll just have to take it slow as to not break through.

When you say the front pinning might be impacted by molding along the RR channel, what exactly do you mean by that and how would it be impacted? And by "molding" do you mean a decorative bead or grove along the forestock?

[Captchee]

Its not going to hurt to put the under lug on the barrel , you just don’t want to inlet it tell you  know if you have to move the barrel back  in the stock or not .
 Yes molding = bead work or channel .  How it impacts is that I don’t like my pins  to be in a thin belly of the stock  which is often produced by a  nose cap . Thus I put them in the  molding so that they have a little more wood around them  

I just measured the web between the barrel channel and the RR grove and its 0.26" at the muzzle end, and the barrel tenon is 0.18" so that will give me 0.08" of webbing left.

Maybe , maybe not . At this point you have no real idea  as you don’t know if the barrel will still need to be dropped lower , moved back .

 This is one of the things that I hate about  working with a pre inlet lock mortise . Not only  is 99% of the time the lock not in the proper location , But  the mortise isn’t inlet so the lock fits . You do realize you will be doing the final fitting on that right ?
 Your not expecting the lock to just drop in the hole  

 that’s why you cant  inlet the barrel lugs into the stock yet  because some times  on pre carves , not only does the  barrel have to be brought back  to fit the  pre carve lock inletting , but it may also have to be inlet deeper down into the stock so that the flash hole ends up center of the side barrel flat  OR in the case of  using a liner , so that the liner doesn’t end up  crossing onto another flat.

Since you pulled the breech plug , did you check to see that the plug was  properly faced and mated to the  inside shoulder  so that it would seal  when tightened down ?

[Captchee]

ok , seems we are crossing paths on posts . IE your writiing or editing while im writing or editing .

 you will be fine to set the underluch . just dont inlet it  and exspect to have to remove it as your more then likly going to have to move the barrel back and possably down

[4-Liberty]

I see. So as long as i don't pin the forward lug into the thinned muzzle cap area, I should be good as long as it's as forward as possible in the thicker stock area, maybe about 3.5" back from the muzzle?

I do understand that I will have to finish the lock mortise to correctly fit the lock into the stock, and so the lock's bolster is flush against the barrel, but I never considered that I might have to drop the barrel channel to position the flash hole. I thought I might have to just move the barrel back a touch. I suppose I will see tomorrow if that is something that I will have to do. Fingers Crossed! LOL!

As long as we're on the subject, what is the correct vertical position for the flash hole? I know there's many opinions on this, but was hoping for a consensus. I've heard of the "sunset" position, but that could be translated into a number of different positions. If I were to make a guess, I would put it just above the top level of the pan as you are looking at it straight on from the side. Sort of resembling the omega symbol " ? ". The bottom portion of the symbol resembles the flat top of the pan and the circle resembles the flash hole. Do I position it so that the bottom of flash hole is just touching the top of the pan as you are looking directly from the side, and centered left to right?

[Captchee]

as a general rule the hole should be center pan  and split by the top of the pan . IE 1/2 the hole below the level of the pan and 1/2 the hole above the level of the pan and centered between the two sides of the pan

[4-Liberty]

As for the breech plug fit, I had TOW fit it for me. I did measure the inside of the plug area to the shoulder and then measured the threaded portion of the plug and it did match. So I think I'm good there.

[Captchee]

yep you should be good then .
 hope you get your lock today . that would help you out alot

[4-Liberty]

My lock has arrived! I can finally start inletting it into the stock.

[Captchee]

great , so how does it lie up ?

[4-Liberty]

Not sure, I've been busy the last couple days with a sick dog. I'm going to take it apart tomorrow and give it a try; the lock that is, not the dog!  

[Trois Castors]

:rotf '

[4-Liberty]

Looks like the barrel has to be moved back just a smidgen. It doesn't look like it has to be dropped lower though!

[Captchee]

i would agree  if thats the center of the side flat  then the barrel just needs moved back alittle

[4-Liberty]

So, as I was working on the lock inletting with the barrel in the channel, I noticed that there is a very very slight space along the barrel and the stock that wasn't there before. When i finished inletting the barrel it had a seamless fit with the stock. Is this normal? Could it be from the dry air conditions?

[Captchee]

More then likely its from taking the barrel out and putting it back in . as long as you have not removed any more wood , either purposely of accidentally, it will pretty much close back up in the finish work .
 In mot saying its ok to just slap the barrel in . you will be taking it in and out many time  thought the build . Just be careful and slow when replacing or removing it .
  The barrel however should easily come out  with only slight , wedge pressure from the nose of the forearm . So if its extremely tight now , it will be even tighter after finishing . . Keep in mind that the forearm wood on a long rifle does not support the barrel.   When completed , it will be thin and rather weak . So what really happens is the barrel actually supports the wood . Thus you can break the stock  when trying to  replace or remove the barrel  if things get to tight