New CVA Bobcat Stock

[Winter Hawk]

A while back I sent the plastic stock for a little Bobcat I have, to Pecatonica River Long Rifle Supply, with a request that they replicate it in maple with a full stock.  Rather than trying to copy the whole stock they suggested using a T-C replacement stock, inlet for the CVA.  That's what we agreed on and they came in the mail yesterday.  The lock and trigger group fit perfectly, while I will need to do a touch of cutting where the corners are round instead of square to make the tang fit.  I am impressed with this; it will be a neat Winter project!  Photos will be forthcoming once I start work on it.

~Kees~

[Ohio Joe]

A while back I sent the plastic stock for a little Bobcat I have, to Pecatonica River Long Rifle Supply, with a request that they replicate it in maple with a full stock.  Rather than trying to copy the whole stock they suggested using a T-C replacement stock, inlet for the CVA.  That's what we agreed on and they came in the mail yesterday.  The lock and trigger group fit perfectly, while I will need to do a touch of cutting where the corners are round instead of square to make the tang fit.  I am impressed with this; it will be a neat Winter project!  Photos will be forthcoming once I start work on it.

~Kees~

Outstanding!!! Can't wait to see it. 

[BEAVERMAN]

 

[Winter Hawk]

Outstanding!!! Can't wait to see it. 

Well, you are just going to have to wait.  This is a WINTER project!   

~Kees~

[Ohio Joe]

Outstanding!!! Can't wait to see it. 

Well, you are just going to have to wait.  This is a WINTER project!   

~Kees~

Well, it's kind 'a winter here right now, Kees... 8 to 10 inches of snow and cold... Can I see it now??? 

I do look forward to seeing it once you have 'er all done. 

[Winter Hawk]

Well, with all the work being done by ShootrJ2003, I have been shamed into finally starting on the Bobcat.  It's been sitting in the closet with the new stock so yesterday I got the tang fitted, then drilled the holes for the lock bolt and tang - trigger plate bolt.  The plastic butt palate would never work so I have a brass one on order from Track.  The only problem was that Pecatonica had made the inlet for the lock a smidgen too deep so this morning I mixed up some thickened epoxy and dabbed that in the proper places, then set the lock plate (after liberally applying Johnson's past wax followed by Vaseline as release agents) in place even with the surface of the stock.  I did this rather than sanding the stock down, because the hammer was hitting the nipple inboard of being centered.  I believe it will now be smack on.

After seeing Hanshi's photo of the muzzle of his fowler I think I may go without a muzzle cap, maybe no thimble where the ramrod channel transitions into a hole in the stock.  Not sure about that last.

But, I have a question for the members here.  The plastic stock attaches the barrel with a wedge which I can use also on the wood one.  However, I will also have to fit one towards the front of the stock.  I am debating pinning the barrel in place instead.  What are the advantages and disadvantages of both ways to fasten the them together?  Other than the obvious advantage of wedges to remove the barrel for cleaning.

Okay, enough of this, I'm going to make some Sleepy Time tea for Carol and get ready for bed.

~Kees~
 [ Invalid Attachment ]
Plastic stock - Wood pictures later!

[Ohio Joe]

Kees, I can only speak for myself...

On my rebuilds and builds, I always pin... If you oblong the hole in the barrel underlug (for the pin), you will have no problems with stock expansion and contraction when shooting as the wood stock will climatizes to temperature change, (from either nature or use from the barrel warming as you shoot). Oblong the pinhole in the lug - east to west. It doesn't take much.

Now you'll never see the stock reacting / but if the lug holes are not oblong - it will show up in accuracy.


 

[PetahW]

.

You've done well, pilgrim..... 

[Winter Hawk]

On my rebuilds and builds, I always pin...

But why Joe?  What is the advantage of pinning versus wedges, other than that you have a cleaner looking stock?

You've done well, pilgrim.....

Thank you for the kind words, but let's wait until you see the final product; I have lots of chances to turn a nice stock into firewood!   

~Kees~

[Ohio Joe]

But why Joe?  What is the advantage of pinning versus wedges, other than that you have a cleaner looking stock?

Well Kees, IMHO;

Yes, you can remove a wedge key on the hooked breech barrel for easy take out and cleaning. However, every time the barrel is removed,,, is it put back in the exact (and I do mean exact) spot from your last good zero point that produced good groups?

Should you have to loosen the Tang screw to get the wedged barrel out, is that Tang screw set at the exact same pressure it was before taking out the barrel for cleaning? Is the wedge to barrel at the exact same pressure once the wedge is removed - then re' inserted? (Now this might not show up immediately, but eventually it will).

With a pinned barrel you don't have these concerns... Your cleaning routine will be different most like, and that's not to say that you can't get a pinned barrel as clean as a hooked breech / wedge held barrel - because you can.

The less any barrel from any firearm riding in a stock - is not removed - that firearm will maintain its accuracy much better.

One other thing, (in the field or at the Range) a wedge can work loose - and even sometimes get lost in the field. Also when a wedge works loose you can tap the bottom of the wedge key holder to tighten it, but that also changes the pressure to the barrel / wood fit - and could affect accuracy.

I've never heard of a pin working loose, or even being lost in the field or at the Range.

[Winter Hawk]

Good points Joe, thank you!

~Kees~

[Ohio Joe]

You're welcome Kees.

I might mention too, that the above info was the leading reason I pinned the barrel's of all my dedicated competition ML Rifles, (which also led me to pinning my "everyday (so to speak)" ML Rifles.

I've seen many a Lyman & TC's, as well as the old double wedged CVA Mountain Rifle - hold their own on the firing line. I've seen some of them with their wedge pin(s) cover with a piece of bicycle inner tube and even electrical tape for harmonic's of no barrel to stock change during a 20 minute / 5 shot competition.

So in the end, it's what suits you best. 

[Winter Hawk]

A question for Joe, Rondo, Rob & others who have built their guns.  I have a butt plate which will work just find (I hope  ).  Now what is the best way to saw the butt to the contours of the plate?  Mind you, I don't have the fancy electrical tools except for a drill, skil saw and jig saw so no band saw, drill press etc.  I do have a good selection of hand tools.  I think I will have to position the butt plate alongside the stock in the proper position and then trace a pencil line along it to saw along.  After using a coping saw to make the cut I blacken the edges of the plate and position it and sand off the black on the wood.  Repeat until there are no places without black, drill the butt and screw the plate to the it, then sand/file any proud wood or metal until they are a perfect () match.  Is there anything I am forgetting?

Thanks,
~Kees~

[RobD]

A question for Joe, Rondo, Rob & others who have built their guns.  I have a butt plate which will work just find (I hope  ).  Now what is the best way to saw the butt to the contours of the plate?  Mind you, I don't have the fancy electrical tools except for a drill, skil saw and jig saw so no band saw, drill press etc.  I do have a good selection of hand tools.  I think I will have to position the butt plate alongside the stock in the proper position and then trace a pencil line along it to saw along.  After using a coping saw to make the cut I blacken the edges of the plate and position it and sand off the black on the wood.  Repeat until there are no places without black, drill the butt and screw the plate to the it, then sand/file any proud wood or metal until they are a perfect () match.  Is there anything I am forgetting?

Thanks,
~Kees~

Got images to share?

[Ohio Joe]

A question for Joe, Rondo, Rob & others who have built their guns.  I have a butt plate which will work just find (I hope  ).  Now what is the best way to saw the butt to the contours of the plate?  Mind you, I don't have the fancy electrical tools except for a drill, skil saw and jig saw so no band saw, drill press etc.  I do have a good selection of hand tools.  I think I will have to position the butt plate alongside the stock in the proper position and then trace a pencil line along it to saw along.  After using a coping saw to make the cut I blacken the edges of the plate and position it and sand off the black on the wood.  Repeat until there are no places without black, drill the butt and screw the plate to the it, then sand/file any proud wood or metal until they are a perfect () match.  Is there anything I am forgetting?

Thanks,
~Kees~

Pretty much the way you do yours - is the way I do mine - only I use my band saw cutting from the rear into (close to the out-line of the butt plate / leaving it proud) - then I cut that curve away / again leaving the line proud,,, and then do the final shaping with files and sandpaper... So whatever works for you is the best way to go IMHO.    It still comes down to a piece of hardware that needs fitted.

You can't make it out in the picture - but there is a brass toe-plate at the bottom of the butt plate.